The quality of Italian denim is unmatched in the industry. The precursor of modern denim was born in Genoa 500 years ago, giving Italy centuries of unrivaled history and heritage in denim production. Candiani is the only mill that still produces denim in the original area of its inception.
History of Italian denim
Italian denim history dates back to the High Middle Ages. In 1144, the Cathars arrived in Italy, fleeing oppression in France and settling in cities such as Chieri and Milan. They brought with them the knowledge of cultivating woad, a plant used to produce a blue dye for fustian, a durable fabric made from cotton, hemp, or linen. Various types of fustian were manufactured in Europe, particularly in Italy and France.
Chieri was a hub for producing woad-dyed fustian in the 15th century. The fabric was probably sold to Genoese sailors and port workers. However, when Vasco da Gama discovered a new sea route to India in 1498, indigo began to replace woad as it was easier and more cost-effective to import. Additionally, experts discovered that indigo worked better for dyeing cotton and flax.
The art of weaving was highly popular and even caught the interest of Leonardo da Vinci. In 1495, the artist sketched the first mechanical weaving loom and shuttle, which is now on page 985 of the Codex Atlanticus. It became a reality in 1733 when John Kay patented the flying shuttle during the Industrial Revolution.
Italian denim is not only connected to England through the invention of shuttle looms. Prior to this, the city of Genoa began producing its own fustian, which gained recognition in the 16th century for its cotton yarns, indigo-dyed warp, white weft, and affordability. These characteristics made it the real predecessor of our contemporary denim. Sailors and port workers, who originally used fustian for sails and ship coverings, began wearing fustian clothing due to its durability and ability to conceal stains with its dark color.
Genoa’s port was one of the largest and most important worldwide at the time. It exported goods throughout Europe, particularly to London. In English inventories, fabrics were often named after their city of origin, but the names were frequently altered. As a result, 16th-century inventories in England featured Genoese fustian as geanes, jeane, jeanes, and eventually jeans.
Artists also used fustian for their works. Between 1538 and the end of the 17th century, a group of Genoese artists, including Teramo Piaggio, depicted the Passion Canvases on a blue background for the Benedictine abbey of San Nicolò del Boschetto. These canvases depict the Passion of Christ and are now in the Diocesan Museum of Genoa.
Additionally, in the 17th century, an unknown artist known as the Master of the Blue Jeans painted a series of scenes showing daily and modest life. The figures in these paintings wear blue fabric that resembles contemporary denim, complete with fading spots. One century later, nativity figures dressed in Genoese fustian, mainly representing shepherds and panhandlers, were created.
Finally, Giuseppe Garibaldi wore Genoese fustian. The trousers he used in 1860 to land in Marsala and during the war in Sicily are made in the typical sailors’ style. They are now showcased in Rome at the Central Museum of the Risorgimento and were created 13 years before Jacob Davis and Levi Strauss patented their jeans in the US.
Quality standards in Italian denim
The world’s denim production is mainly concentrated in five countries: Bangladesh, China, India, Pakistan, and Turkey. However, Italian denim weaving has a long-standing tradition that is unmatched and a global reputation for excellence. Italian craftsmanship combines tradition, innovation, passion, and care in the textile and fashion industry. Northern Italy is rich in textile heritage, from Biella’s wool to Como’s silk and the thriving textile factories in Varese and Bergamo. Techniques and knowledge have been passed down through generations, giving Italian-made products a sense of authenticity and timelessness.
Italian denim quality is guaranteed by our country’s rich heritage and tradition in denim production. This ensures a deep understanding of the material and meticulous attention to detail throughout the manufacturing process. We prioritize high-quality ingredients and cutting-edge technologies, which, when combined with skilled craftsmanship, result in high-quality products. This expertise also ensures that Italian denim has authentic aesthetics.
Additionally, Italy is part of the European Union, which has some of the strictest social and environmental standards in the textile industry, including worker safety and chemical use. We firmly believe that high quality is necessarily connected with following sustainable and responsible principles. High-quality products must not only respect but also actively protect every human, living being, and territory involved in their production and consumption process, fostering a sense of responsibility and ethics in the industry.
Candiani’s contribution to Italian denim
Candiani operates in Robecchetto con Induno, which is close to Milan and Genoa and is situated in a thriving textile area in Northern Italy. We are the sole denim producer in the birthplace of this fabric, and we are committed to preserving the tradition of Italian textile manufacturing and upholding the legacy of Italian denim. We achieve this by updating them with the most innovative and sustainable technologies and techniques.
Our people are our most important and valuable asset; they are the true individuals who make a difference in the industry. The Candiani family has been managing the mill for four generations, passing down the values of Made in Italy, innovation, and sustainability from one generation to the next. Similarly, many other families have been working in the mill for generations, passing down the passion and expertise rooted in the Italian textile legacy.
Moreover, we are located in Parco del Ticino, which was the first natural park established in Italy in 1974. This protected area has unparalleled biodiversity and, therefore, has unique rules and restrictions to regulate the companies operating there within our industry. We have been investing in adapting our production process to protect people and the environment for 50 years, meaning our sustainable transitions began long before it became a buzzword. Additionally, we comply with a series of voluntary standards to reduce the impact of our business.
Finally, we are close to Milan, one of the world’s fashion capitals. The city has always influenced the style and aesthetics of our products as we have been collaborating with some of the most famous fashion houses and emerging brands to develop products according to their needs and desires. Working with the most talented fashion designers requires our stylistic supply always to be one step ahead, maintaining a high level of quality over time. This necessity has fueled our natural inclination toward innovation over the years, making us well-known and appreciated in the denim industry.