Recycling is crucial for improving circularity and reducing waste in the fashion industry. Depending on the products, recycling can occur at various levels: post-industrial, pre-consumer, or post-consumer. We have always recognized the importance of waste minimization, but we have recently enhanced this effort with dedicated programs and partnerships.
Candiani’s journey towards recycled denim
In 2018, to mark our 80th anniversary, we began our journey towards recycled denim. We introduced ReGen denim, which contained 50% recycled cotton and 50% TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ fibers, completely avoiding the use of virgin cotton. The recycled cotton used in ReGen denim was sourced from our post-industrial cotton waste.
In 2019, ReGen received the ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award in the Industry Excellence Award category. This prestigious award recognizes textile and clothing manufacturers who utilize technological innovations to enhance industry sustainability.
Re-Cyclone
In our ongoing effort to generate sustainable innovation, we continuously identify Key Performance Indicators (KPIs) for our solutions. These include feedstock, supply chain, carbon footprint, traceability, and quality. This led to the creation of Re-Cyclone, our R&D program dedicated to post-industrial and post-consumer recycled denim, as we understand the importance of reducing waste and the need for new materials in the denim industry.
Post-consumer recycled denim
The Post-Consumer Recycled (PCR) program launched in collaboration with Humana People to People Italia and Filatura Astro represents a virtuous project in our industry. It is part of our Re-Cyclone family and demonstrates that forming partnerships is essential for achieving circularity.
Humana People to People Italia collects used clothing via over 5,800 containers distributed throughout Italy in collaboration with municipalities and multi-service companies. The organization then processes and sells the collected clothing to generate funds for its social and environmental projects in Italy and worldwide. However, some garments are too damaged to be reused.
That’s why Humana People to People Italia has adhered to our program to process used, damaged jeans by removing buttons, zippers, patches, etc. Filatura Astro then shreds and spins these garments into new yarns. We use these yarns to create recycled denim fabrics.
Post-consumer recycled fibers are not as strong as virgin cotton or other new materials. They are also weaker than post-industrial recycled fibers. That’s why, currently, we are not yet able to produce 100% mechanical post-consumer recycled fabric.
Our proprietary Blue Seed cotton is the crucial ingredient in producing our post-consumer recycled denim, as its superior quality and strength can compensate for the weakness of post-consumer recycled fibers. Thanks to these properties, we can use a higher-than-average percentage of recycled fibers in our recycled denim fabrics.
This recycling process complies with the Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certification requirements, which also guarantee that a product contains a minimum of 20% pre- or post-consumer recycled materials. The certification was granted to Candiani Denim by ICEA.
What makes our PCR program unique?
Our PCR program is in line with all the KPIs we have identified in our effort to develop recycled denim that sets us apart from any other. It has four key features:
- Proximity: the entire recycling program takes place in Italy, within only 60 km, resulting in a small carbon footprint for our highest-quality supply chain
- Traceability: every step of the process is traceable, from the collection containers through the Humana People to People Italia platform to the shredding and spinning operations at Filatura Astro and Candiani’s fabric production
- Circularity: this program offers a solution for turning garment waste into new fabrics
- Quality: Blue Seed cotton ensures superior properties for mechanically recycled cotton, providing strength, durability, and an exceptional hand feel; additionally, it can be blended with an above-average quantity of post-consumer recycled fibers
Blue Seed cotton
Blue Seed cotton, a Candiani exclusive, is a hybrid variety co-engineered with Gowan Seed Company. By assigning our seed to specific farms we can ensure a fully traceable value chain.
As a hybrid variety, Blue Seed cotton features the characteristics of hybrid vigor or heterosis. This means that it possesses improved biological functions compared to its parents. Blue Seed cotton combines the high quality of extra-long staple cotton with the robustness of Upland cotton.
Furthermore, Blue Seed cotton is more resistant in the fields as it requires less water and fewer chemicals for cultivation. It was specifically developed to be grown even under arid soil conditions.
The signature ingredients of Candiani’s PCR recipe
Every denim fabric in the PCR program is available in two fiber blends: we mix the recycled cotton fibers with either regenerative or organic virgin cotton. Our PCR fabrics, along with our Blue Seed cotton, have a variety of special features that demonstrate our commitment to a more innovative and sustainable fashion system.
One of these features is Kitotex®, our patented sizing technology that replaces petrol-based PVA (Polyvinyl Alcohol) with chitosan, a bio-based polymer from renewable sources. We exclusively use fungal chitosan from Aspergillus niger. Chitosan is biodegradable, non-toxic, bacteriostatic, and helps clean wastewater. Additionally, it improves color saturation and has enabled us to create a new color: K-New, a super-dark double-dip 100% indigo shade with a red cast. This dye sets our most innovative fabric in the collection apart.
Furthermore, this fabric is dyed using our Indigo Juice® technology, which leaves the color more superficial on the yarns and makes the fading process easier. This technology significantly reduces the energy, water, and chemicals needed to wash down the finished garment in an industrial laundry. When combined, Indigo Juice® and Kitotex® further reduce the environmental impact of denim. Together, we can save up to 75% water and 65% of chemicals in the entire production process of jeans.
The previous images were taken in the semi-automatic sorting plant of Humana People to People Italia.
How to scale recycled denim
We have two leading examples of recycled denim production in our post-industrial and PCR denim programs. However, their scalability is currently limited. We believe that developing innovative and virtuous solutions is the first necessary step towards a circular economy, but they need to be scaled up to make a real difference. Internally, we have trouble with this because the volumes we produce are below the industry average.
As a result, we have been seeking a partner to help us scale and apply our research and development progress to generate volumes that can have a significant positive impact on the denim industry. Our collaboration with Sharabati Denim aligns with our vision for recycled denim as a crucial solution to some of the most challenging issues in the fashion industry. They have the largest production facility specializing in post-industrial recycling in the Mediterranean region.
Recycled denim that makes the difference
Our new recycled denim collection in the Re-Cyclone program includes five fabrics:
- Three are made of 100% post-industrial recycled cotton
- One is made of 57% post-industrial recycled cotton
- One is made of 38% post-consumer recycled cotton
Post-industrial recycled cotton comes from the inevitable fiber waste that occurs during denim manufacturing processes. Sharabati Denim operates one of the largest textile production plants in the industry. Consequently, they have significant post-industrial waste volumes that allow for the scaling of the manufacturing process for this recycled denim.
The sizing compound used in the production process is vegetable-based, making it biodegradable and non-toxic. It replaces hazardous chemicals and PVA, resulting in a microplastics-free dyeing process.
Our new recycled denim collection is not just about the fabric composition but also about the unique dyeing and finishing techniques we employ. The collection features authentic looks, marked salt and pepper effects, and medium-dark indigo shades with a red cast. We also offer two of our newest and most alternative finishing techniques. We use foam to play with the color saturation of the fabric, creating an unconventional and rich cast. Additionally, we offer Indigo Juice®-dyed fabrics, adding a distinct touch to the collection.